Theresa Wilson is Bon Voyage’s resident Yankee Doodle Dandy. Here she shares her perspective on the Fourth of July holiday……..
Happy Birthday, America!
I’ve now lived in England for 25 years and have fully embraced my adopted country. But if there is one time I really do long to be home it’s the first part of July and all of the Fourth celebrations.
On the whole, Americans are a patriotic bunch – we fly flags from our front porches; we thank our military for their service; we wear eagle and flag embossed clothing year-round, but give us a holiday where the entire point is patriotism and stand back. Parades, fireworks, family gatherings, BBQs, picnics, baseball – God Bless America!
It’s a tough one for those of us split between two countries. On one hand, we’re celebrating the birth of a nation – on the other, we’re celebrating freedom from British rule. I have a British husband, so you can imagine the jokes that fly around our family! But I believe that both countries have huge amounts of respect and interest in each other. Back in 1776, it was time to end the American Revolution and let the original colonies be independent. Although the war went on for another seven years, on July 2, 1776, the Second Continental Congress voted to approve a resolution of independence from Great Britain’s rule. The Declaration of Independence was ratified on the fourth. There is some historical debate on whether that is true, but no alternate theories here – the 4th of July is America’s Independence Day!
As a child, it represented the first big weekend of summer. Schools typically break up in the USA between the end of May and mid-June, so summer activities were in full flow, but everything stopped for the 4th of July. Depending on when it fell, either the weekend before or after would be packed with family fun. We were always involved with the local parade which included the whole community. If you weren’t in the parade you lined the street waving flags, hoping to grab a treat that might be thrown from a marcher! Then it was on to a good old family style BBQ. Burgers, hotdogs and corn on the cob straight off the grill. I honestly dream about that corn – fresh from Midwest fields, dripping in butter. It’s as much a part of my Fourth of July as waving flags and sparklers!
Evening Events
This brings me to evening events. We’d all gather at the appointed family members’ home for an evening of backyard games, more food and ultimately fireworks. Invariably, we’d fire a few rounds of our own that an uncle brought from a local stand while all the kids always ran around the garden with lighted sticks actively spewing sparks. Of course, one of us would either be afraid and drop the ignited stick on the ground or get burned while the adults continued lighting roman candles and keeping fingers crossed that nothing flew over the neighbour’s fence! It was the 1970s, so don’t judge! Then it was time for proper pyrotechnics! Some years we’d watch local displays from the comfort of our own lounge chairs in the yard. Other years, we braved traffic and crowds for an amazing vantage point along Lake Michigan.
Reunion
In my adult years, our family would undertake a huge reunion every other Fourth of July and religiously those of us who no longer resided in Wisconsin would flock home. Ultimately, the Fourth of July is as much about celebrating family and friends and summer as it is about celebrating America’s birthday. Don’t get me wrong – there is always a red, white and blue cake, but it’s more than just being American – it’s about the people we love, what we appreciate about living in a democracy and what we are thankful for. That’s Thanksgiving too, but one holiday at a time! The funny thing is – every American I know loves all things British. The Queen, Buckingham Palace, the accents, the pomp and circumstance…the list goes on. The more I think about it, the more I realise – the Fourth of July today has very little to do with celebrating our break from Britain and more to do with bringing a nation together to honour where we came from and think about where we’re going. Like any country, we’ve got our issues, but hopefully we’ll reflect, regroup and re-emerge stronger than ever.
I know I will be with my family in spirit and chances are I will wear stars and stripes to the office on the 4th. You can take the girl out of America…..
Growing up, music filled our home, particularly the Beatles and the King – Elvis Presley. With the imminent release of the King of Rock n Roll’s biopic, I got thinking back to the time I spent three nights in Memphis on Bon Voyage’s Heritage to Honky Tonk itinerary where I immersed myself in all things Elvis.
One of the many things I loved about this itinerary was
the fact that with travel by rail, private car, and Mississippi steamer all you have
to do is take in the view so when we arrived in Memphis from Nashville via our
private sedan transfer, we arrived raring to get stuck and experience Memphis through the eyes of
Elvis.
Arcade Restaurant
After a swift check-in to our hotel – the historic Peabody we set
off to find some food. Where else should we go but the Arcade Restaurant which
is not only the oldest diner in Memphis but a firm favourite of Elvis and only
a short walk from the hotel. I wasn’t brave enough to try The King’s favourite a fried
peanut butter and banana sandwich but instead, I had a Rainmaker Sandwich with an amazing Shake it
like the King, spiked shakes. Well worth a visit not only because of the
connection to Elvis but because it’s been featured in a whole host of Hollywood
movies like The Rainmaker (and every other Grisham), Great Balls of Fire, Walk
the Line and one of my favourites – Elizabethtown.
Sun Studios Tour
We decided to walk to the Sun Studios for the 5:30 pm tour along Beale Street so we could view the famous Elvis statue. For those of you who don’t know Sun Studio is the birthplace of Rock N’ Roll and discovered BB King to Elvis to Johnny Cash to Jerry Lee Lewis, there are music legends everywhere you look. I got goose pimples standing in the very same spot where Elvis first recorded, and it was like being a child again with all the memorabilia from all the artists my parents had in our front room. The tours leave on the hour and last 45 minutes and are so worth it. If you’ve got the voice, you can book a recording session, I didn’t disgrace the fabled Sun Studios with my singing voice!
We had a few hours of R&R at the hotel before heading out for
some BBQ food and then experiencing the famous Peabody Rooftop Parties – the
food and entertainment in Memphis will be blogs in themselves so no need to
venture off our Elvis path.
Historic Peabody Hotel
We rose on day two with sore heads and missed breakfast as we were
checking out we were surprised by a Peabody tradition – the ‘Peabody Duck March’ where the famous ducks come out of
the lift and walk down the red carpet to the fountain for a nice swim! It was
almost surreal seeing it but we were so glad we did – they do this daily at
11am and 5pm, don’t be like us and nearly miss it!
We headed over to the Beauty Shop Restaurant for brunch. This hip
and trendy restaurant is styled on a 50’s beauty salon and what links this to
Elvis you may ask – it was formerly Priscilla Presley’s go-to for her curl and
dye. A few excellent Bad Boy Bloody Mary’s with some Eggs Benedict gave us the
fuel for our next stop, the Holy Grain for all of us Elvis buffs – GRACELAND!
The Guest House at Graceland
Whilst we would have stayed at the Peabody for longer, we wanted
to get the full Graceland experience, so it made sense to stay at The Guest
House at Graceland, which is located just a few steps away from the Graceland
mansion. This AAA Four Diamond Resort (in British, this is a four-star hotel!) was
influenced by Elvis himself when archivists unearthed an architectural design done for Elvis while he was
alive that included a recording studio and “a place where he wanted his friends
to stay.” He called it the guest house. Opened in 2016, the $92m hotel has all
of Elvis’ signature swagger with Priscilla herself overseeing all the design
aspects (it’s said that Priscilla and Lisa Marie are regular visitors to the guesthouse,
but we didn’t see them, unfortunately).
We didn’t stay in
either of the two King Suites which are modelled on Elvis’ Las Vegas hotel room
and the other the master bedroom at Graceland. We had a ground-floor room which
really felt like we were staying in Graceland with the King himself. Check-in
was a breeze as a Bon Voyage client, they really love us here and go out of
their way to make us feel extra special.
What I really
loved about staying here was all the subtle ways in which the Guesthouse pays
homage to Elvis, it really isn’t big, bold and brash as you’d expect from somewhere like Las Vegas.
For example, the staircase is breathtaking but it’s only until you visit
Graceland that you see it was modelled on the entrance then the light fitting
just looks like well a light fitting but when you do a closer inspection you
see they are arranged around E’s and P’s, lobby chairs with pointed backs to
resemble Elvis’ upturned collar, subtle but it works. Forgot to mention, that every
evening there are complimentary peanut butter and banana sandwiches.
Graceland
Graceland is the
most famous rock n’ roll residence in the world? It certainly is for me, and I can’t think of
another of its stature. I was expecting it to be huge but it is a lot smaller
than say celebrities’ houses of the present day but that doesn’t take anything
away from how beautiful it is and the feeling you get walking up the drive and
through the front door. The tour is conducted through an audio guide (narrated
by Lisa-Marie) on a tablet however since I have wanted to visit Graceland for
like forever, I splurged on Ultimate VIP Tour tickets. This got me a tour of Graceland with an expert
guide (group of no more than 10 people), a self-guided tour of Elvis’ Custom
Jets, entry into the Elvis Presley’s Memphis complex as well as a host of VIP
add-ons like meal vouchers, VIP merchandise, photo opportunities etc, I thought
it was good value at $196.
I was really
overwhelmed walking through Graceland, no two rooms truly are the same and as
it is largely untouched, I kept looking out for the King to walk down the
stairs – you really do feel like a guest when you visit. One thing for sure is
that Elvis truly had a unique style when it came to interior design.
The living room
is magnificent, I loved the huge white sofa and the glass windows with bright
peacocks painted on them. You’ll notice that there are TVs everywhere, Elvis
loved his telly and he made sure that he could see a TV no matter where he was
sitting in Graceland.
Throughout the
tour you keep passing the staircase to the second floor, we’re not allowed up
there because that was exactly how Elvis had it when he was alive, guests had
the run of Graceland, but they were not permitted on the second floor.
You see his
parents and then his Grandmother Minnie’s bedroom with its purple colouring and
poodle wallpaper which was designed by Minnie herself.
The next stop was
the dining room, where you can see Elvis’ favourite seat, chosen so he had the
best view of the TV. Lisa-Marie says they still eat at the table when she stays
at Graceland. The table is laid with the crockery from Elvis and Priscilla’s
wedding.
The tour then
took us into the kitchen, which Lisa-Marie says was the busiest room in the
house, it was amazing to see all the vintage appliances.
We went
downstairs down a mirrored stairway into his recreation room, with the TCB
lightning bolt on the wall and the monkey ashtray. He had three TVs here because someone told
him the President of the USA had three TVs! Lots of animal horns adorn his bar
(and all over Graceland), I really wanted to have a game of pool on his table.
What is great about this area is how everything is close together yet so
differently designed.
Now onto my
favourite room of Graceland – the jungle room, which we got to up a staircase
that has been green carpet on the floor, walls and ceiling. Bizarre indeed. His
jungle room was apparently Elvis’s favourite room in the house, with all the
wood, carved animals, and ashtrays. He loved to entertain in this room, and it
is said because the autistics are so good, he recorded here, hence the carpet
on the ceilings.
We walked through
the carport and around the back of Graceland into his father Vernon’s office.
This was the hub of Elvis enterprises, and it is pretty cool to see. The next
stop was the trophy room which had all kinds of interesting stuff like his
birth certificate, the family bible, pay slips, and unique finds like school
reports, and his box of crayons from school. The room has their wedding
outfits, Lisa-Marie’s crib, and several items taken from upstairs in Graceland.
I did tear up a scarf that Elvis gave to Lisa which he wrote a few heartfelt
words on, it really showed how much he loved his ‘Yisa’. Elvis loved to shoot, and we get to see his
gun collection.
We left the
trophy room and passed the pool which is tiny into Elvis’s sports complex which
is really a huge racquetball court, bar and pinball machines. I saw a water
fountain that still worked, so took a sneaky drink, who else can say they had a
drink from Elvis’s water fountain.
The end of the
tour is the Mediation Garden but more on this tomorrow.
I think we spent
around an hour and a half on the tour and maybe more if we had stayed for
longer in the Mediation Garden. We walked out to the gates, where we wrote on
the wall with seemingly everyone else who has been to Graceland.
Elvis Presley’s Memphis Complex
Our next stop was
across Elvis Presley Boulevard to the Elvis Presley’s Memphis, which opened in
2017 costing a whopping $45m I was keen to see what all the fuss was about. A
visit to the Elvis: The Entertainer Museum inside is worth the admission alone,
there are hundreds upon hundreds of artefacts from the Graceland archives
detailing Elvis’s life from his early days, first recordings into his live
performances and films. The Presley Motors automobile museum has over 20 cars
and motorcycles that Elvis had owned including a Pink Cadillac, a 1975 Dino
Ferrari and a cinema showing his films.
We were famished
at this point so took a stop at the Glady’s Diner, named after his mother, we
could have dined at Vernon’s smokehouse but since we were having BBQ food that evening,
we decided to eat here.
We took in the
many exhibits that change throughout the year, I really enjoyed the King of
Karate and Elvis in the army exhibits.
The last stop on
our tour was a self-guided tour of Elvis’ Custom Jets, there is the Lisa Marie
and a small Lockheed Jet Star, it was amazing to see them both especially given
that Elvis spent $800,000 renovating the Lisa Marie and adding a living room,
conference room and private bedrooms.
I think including
a bite to eat we spent nearly three hours in the complex so all in all maybe
five hours at Graceland, I was knackered at the end, to say the least!
I had intended to
visit Beale Street again but instead chose to have a nap and some food at The
Guest House and then was pleasantly surprised to find live music on at the
Graceland Soundstage, so I whiled away the evening with some good food, good
music and a few good cocktails before having an early night.
Meditation Garden
The reason for
the early night was because each morning between 7:30-8:30 am the gates to
Elvis’ Meditation Garden are opened early and I wanted to pay my respects to
Elvis and his family before the hustle and bustle of the day starts.
The garden is in
a beautiful peaceful setting, with flowers and a central fountain. Elvis is
buried here with his mother, father, grandmother and stillborn twin brother.
There were only
around 15 of us there and we were all in deep, reflective moods, paying our
respects to the King, a person who had touched so many for so long.
It was back to
The Guesthouse for breakfast ready to start my third and final day in Memphis.
Tigerman Karate Dojo and
Museum
I really wanted to visit Beale Street on my final night,
especially B.B. King’s Blues Club so decided my final day was going to be at a
more leisurely pace and where possible I was going to walk around Memphis to
see the sights.
A short 25-minute stroll gets you to Tigerman Karate Dojo and
Museum to see where Elvis first practised karate. The building has been
restored to the original appearance of the early 1970’s so it really is like
walking in just like Elvis. The museum celebrates all things karate and Elvis
with one-of-a-kind pieces of memorabilia that you won’t see anywhere else.
For those of you that practise karate, this is a working dojo, and
you can pre-book classes so you can say you’ve trained where Elvis has!
Stax – Museum of American Soul
I had
intended to walk everywhere but checking google maps I saw it was a near five-mile
walk to Stax – Museum of American Soul so I cheated and took an uber!
The
museum is on the site of the original Stax Records recording studios where
Elvis recorded some of his best work in 1973. The museum pays homage to Elvis
but more importantly to all the great soul singers that have passed through its
doors such as Isaac Hayes, Otis Redding, Booker T. & the MGs, Marvin Gaye and many others.
Normally museums are quiet places but not here with lots of music
blasting out and dancing down the exhibits is actively encouraged! Well worth a
visit.
Coletta’s Italian Restaurant
I was getting
hungry and saw that Coletta’s Italian Restaurant was around the corner. This time capsule/restaurant claims to have created barbecue
pizza, a favourite of Elvis’. I dined in
the Elvis Room among pictures and memorabilia commemorating the times when
Elvis and his entourage would take over a private dining room at the
restaurant. I left suitably stuffed.
Memphis Music Hall of Fame
I cheated and got
an uber to Beale Street so I could tick off the next two stops in my Elvis
trail. I didn’t know until I arrived that Elvis has been inducted into five
halls of fame with the Memphis music hall of fame being the fifth.
The MMHoF has
been inducting members since 2012 with the museum opening in 2015. Elvis was
one of the first inductees. The museum itself is quite small but what they lack
in space they more than make up for with inventive ways to display their
exhibits such as suspended guitars and a grand piano repurposed as a light
fitting.
The museum has
exhibits and memorabilia from all Memphis’ famous singers, from Elvis’
jumpsuits to Johnny Cash’s famous black suit and handwritten lyrics from Al
Green, there is something for everyone here and it’s great for discovering
bands you’ve forgotten and links between famous artists.
A liked the conciseness of the
museum and the fact I was in and out within an hour.
Lansky Brothers Clothes Shop
Since I was
already on Beale Street and knowing I needed to buy some gifts I popped along
to the Lansky Brothers Clothes Shop where the King himself used to purchase his
clothes. I spent way too much time and money in the store and came away with
more for myself than others, but it was so worth it to get some retro 50’s
shirts and Elvis-inspired wear like a beautiful belt.
Since the shop is
located inside the Hard Rock Café I partook in some ice-cold beers and some hot
wings whilst listening to some live music.
On to New Orleans
After a hard day
wandering the streets of Memphis I went back to the Guesthouse for a nap before
heading back to Beale Street for some authentic BBQ food then onto B.B. Kings
Blues Club to dance the night away.
Tomorrow, I check
out and head to New Orleans but since I’m catching the train I can overindulge.
I hope you liked my blog about my Elvis-inspired
journey to Memphis. At Bon
Voyage we make your holiday truly bespoke and tailor your trip to suit your
tastes and budget. Talk to one of our Memphis and Deep South experts to book
YOUR next trip – dream0800 316 3012 or
email sales@bon-voyage.co.uk.
Since you’ve made it this far, you deserve a treat, we have a special digital guide to the Deep South, want a copy? Just click here to request one.
The people of San Francisco are unapologetic, open-minded, freethinkers. Only in San Francisco are you met at the airport by a 28-pound rabbit named ‘Alex the Great.’ along with his fellow Wag Brigade made up of adorable dogs and a pig called Lilou, helping travellers to forget about their worries for a brief moment. San Francisco people love a bold and brave statement. The new terminal at SFO is a testament to this, named after the famed civil rights activist Harvey Milk it’s a beautiful addition. Currently accessible when flying with Virgin, British Airways, and eventually United airlines, it certainly causes controversy with the lesser liberal American States.
First Evening
Our hotel for the evening is located on Nob Hill. One of the highest and most elegant districts in San Francisco, once mansions for the wealthy San Francisco families these historical gems are now pillars of the community. We love the Stanford Court or Fairmont and recommend booking a high floor with Bay views, or heading to the highest restaurant in San Francisco – The Top of the Mark offering 360-degree views of the city, soon to be restored to its former 1920s grandeur. The wealthy families of the day would gather here and watch as their husbands and partners deploy from the naval dock below.
Changes post Pandemic
The Marine district became a firm favourite with locals because of the alfresco dining and bars. Visit in the evening when the fairy lights are twinkling and the atmosphere is vibrant and lively, and sample some of the best chefs in San Francisco. Amongst them is the Dorian – delicious food, attentive staff, and the best martinis. Finish the evening at Club Fugazi, located in North Beach and experience intimate theatre at its finest, telling the story of San Francisco through contemporary circus, I soon saw why this show is internationally celebrated. Creative, moving, and full of death-defying acrobatics. I guarantee you will be left in awe of the cast.
Day 1 – Fisherman’s Wharf, Alcatraz, and Sea Lions
Sitting on the dock watching the sea lions playfully wrestling each other off the marina provides hours of entertainment. Fisherman’s Wharf has an abundance of souvenir shops and some of the best seafood restaurants in the city. The Fog Harbor Fish House with its panoramic views of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge is well worth a visit. Try Dungeness Crab available from November, it’s a favourite with the locals who associate it with the holidays. Book a trip to Alcatraz and always remember to reconfirm your ticket.
We were lucky enough to stumble upon an enthusiastic Uber driver one evening, happy to take us all on a quick tour before heading home. First stop, The Palace of Fine Arts a historical monument sitting on a serene lagoon, restored in 2010 has become a favourite place among locals. The best time to visit is in the evening, lit up by floodlights from below. The light reflects from the lake, casting shadows over the monument and the result is breathtaking. Alternatively, an early morning walk is the best remedy to jetlag.
After taking a few too many selfies, we headed home, passing by the famous Mrs. Doubtfire’s house. We made it to our hotel for the evening – The Stanford Court. Remember the best views on Nob Hill are up high. I recommend requesting an odd room number at Stanford. You’ll see why…
Day 2 – Bay Views and Clam Chowder
For the best views of the bay take a trip by jeep safari or hire a car for the day and visit the Marin Headlands, Fort Point or the Golden Gate Observation Deck are just a few to note. Hike along the coastal trail from the Cliff House at Lands’ End to the Golden Gate Bridge. Start at the Cliff House near the Sutro Baths and make your way to the Golden Gate Bridge passing many landmarks including Baker Beach, the Seacliff area, Marshall Beach, and the Batteries to Bluffs Trail.
All that fresh sea air and hiking work up an appetite. You’ll definitely need one for this next stop. The historical ferry building is located at Embarcadero. A vibrant gathering of local farmers, artisan producers, and independently owned vendors. You can skip from clam chowder to ice cream and macarons in a matter of minutes. It’s a foodie’s paradise. I recommend Hog Island for oysters, Bluebottle Coffee, and Humphreys Ice Cream. I love their bourbon and vanilla flavour it’s heaven!
Day 3 – Bike the Golden Gate Bridge, visit the Painted Ladies and Golden Gate Park
Hire bikes
and if you’re feeling energic cycle the path that runs over the
Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito. Start off early and you’ll make it for lunch.
Take the ferry back to Fisherman’s Wharf passing by Alcatraz. It’s a
particularly wonderful day for an adventurous family.
A must-do for families and lovers of the outdoors is the Golden Gate Park. Offering the perfect refuge away from the big city. You can spend the whole day wandering between the Japanese Tea Gardens, Conservatory of Flowers, and De Young Art Museum. Take a picnic and watch the world go by at Stow Lake and Strawberry Hill. Pop into the Academy of Science among the largest museums of natural history in the world.
Finally, drop by the Painted ladies and Lombard Street for those classic San Francisco photos and you’ve made it! some of the best and most wonderful points of the city on the Bay.
Home time
Personally, I always need more time in San Francisco but that’s just a testament to how much I adore this city, for me it’s back to the airport for my flight and back into work at Bon Voyage to make everyone jealous when they hear the stories of my trip!
Thoughts, experiences and opinions on travel to North America from the UK's leading USA tailor-made holiday experts.
The Bon Voyage Blog 